red linen skirt progress

I’m pleased to report that the red linen skirt project is proceeding nicely.

I last made one in 2008, and I seem to recall thinking at that time that I wouldn’t want to make more than one per year because of the labour involved. I doubt it’s gotten any easier in the interim, but somehow it seems like much less of a chore this time around.

Perhaps that’s because I spent as much time dicking around with the fit on a couple of recent and theoretically straightforward projects (the purple trousers, and an earlier iteration of that same project) as it takes to construct a whole pleated skirt.

I basically make these skirts from the bottom up and from the inside out.

Having sewn the bottom panels (2x T3) together, the next step is to press down the ¼” seam allowance on the panel (T2) that I was going to pleat onto. (The payoff for this step comes later.)

In preparation to start pleating, this piece (the short, not-getting-pleated piece) goes on the ironing board first, with the folded seam allowance at the top, raw edge visible (i.e. rotate the above picture 90° counterclockwise). I then put the other piece (the long, getting-pleated piece) on top of it, wrong side up, and pin together at the selvages. I try to leave a bit of space between the raw edge of the bottom pieces and the raw edge of the top piece – about 2mm. Bring pins together, find the midpoint on both pieces of fabric, pinch to mark, bring pinch marks together, and pin.

My left hand holds the pins together. I've already pinched the two pieces of fabric to mark the midpoints of the two pieces of fabric.

Repeat until the distance between pins is a nice size for pleats.

As before, left hand holds pins together. Midpoints have been pinched and will be pinned together.

When the pins are a good distance apart, lay the fabric out on the ironing board, pleat side up.

Working right to left, pull the loose fabric of each pleat to the right and press.

Pleating in progess. Not sure why this photo ended up so dark.

Once all the pleats are pressed, it’s time to sew them in place. I used a seam allowance of a little less than ¼”.

Sewing pleats with SA of a smidge less than ¼".

Finally, fold the seam allowance over the tops of the pleats for a self-bound finish. (If there is a gap between the pieces of 2mm, the folded seam allowance is ¼” and the seam allowance when stitching the pleats down is a little less than ¼”, then it will fold in just the right place and no pins are needed.)

Fold over the seam allowance to finish the seam.

The process described above is rather different approach to pleating and seam finishing, so it might be hard to follow. I hope I’ve explained this clearly but if not, please let me know!

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About Zena

I sew sometimes.
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4 Responses to red linen skirt progress

  1. Tanit-Isis says:

    Aha! I’ve been curious to read how you finish these off (I knew it would be much more involved and end up far tidier than my version.) Thanks 😀

  2. Pingback: Curveball | Tanit-Isis Sews

  3. Pingback: A tiered skirt workflow | Tanit-Isis Sews

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