three for three

I finished my third long-sleeve T-shirt a few weeks ago and just haven’t had time to post about it.

deep red T-shirt

The neckline ended up a little snugger than I intended. I misremembered what seam allowance I’ve been using, and my SA accidentally ended up 1/8″ narrower than what I had been using. (I figured out what I had done right after I did it, and if I was extra clever I even wrote it down somewhere. I hope.) On top of that, I think I’m doing the front neckline a little too high. As a result, the neck is a bit small: the front ought to be about ½” lower. (You can see a little wrinkle in the front of the neck.) However, the (so-called) binding went in nicely so I didn’t bother to try again. After a few washes, it’s still holding its shape nicely too. Fortunately I’m not particularly sensitive to tight collars.

The sleeves are neither too tight nor too loose, but just right, as far as I’m concerned.

The side seams at the hem still look a little odd (at least, when I first put it on – it’s not visible in this photo, which was taken at the end of the day). I didn’t do anything creative with the side seams – just sewed them at the regular SA as usual. I’m getting a little poke out at the sides and I’m not sure why. I imagine it has something to do with the extra width at the hip (and in back) and my clumsy attempts at fitting this area.

Wore the shirt all day so the fit is a little sloppy. Not sure what’s up with the wrinkle at waist.

I have this horizontal wrinkle at the waist that I can’t quite figure out. I don’t think it’s too tight as I definitely have ease there. When I snug it up around the waist, the wrinkle becomes a little smaller but doesn’t go away. I don’t have a swayback, but I’ve got a bit more in the trunk than average (not that this photo shows it). I wonder if I should add more room in the back from the waist down, and maybe raise the waist a little? But I pretty much tried these adjustments while I was making it and nothing seemed to work.

Any ideas?

stash: -1.5m

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About Zena

I sew sometimes.
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4 Responses to three for three

  1. Cheryl Designs says:

    HI 🙂 Have you had problems with back fittings in the past??? The tee looks like it is too long through the waist. This would happen if you are alittle short-waisted.(To measure, measure down from the small bone at the back of your neck to your natural waistline) Try removing excess fabric at the back waist area. If you need the full length in the front you would need to adjust your pattern at the hemline to ‘even-up’… The tee doesn’t look too tight across your hips but you might add just 1/2″ to each side. I always add alittle extra, then alter to fit 🙂 I do alterations for a living. Sometimes adding back darts to a ready-made top or dress can help with the excess fabric in the length, if a customer is short-waisted. It’s usually cost-prohibitive to literally ‘re-make’ ready-to-wear to fit perfectly. Hope I helped 🙂

    • Zena says:

      I haven’t done a lot of fitting so far, but I know I’m short-waisted (very little room between the bottom of the ribs and the top of the hips).

      On the first version of this shirt, I tweaked the fit a fair amount but perhaps I didn’t raise the waist enough. (When I snug it up at the back of the waist, the back hem rides up. I suspect I may need some more length at the back too.

      This gives me some ideas for my next try. Thanks!

  2. Marie-Christine says:

    Your t-shirt looks very good, at least much better than the average RTW, which is the point, right ;-)? You’re totally right in your analysis of the neck. Most people don’t stand ramrod straight, and scooping out a bit of the front is a good idea. For the back waist, I wouldn’t really do anything to the waist, but perhaps add a smidgen more to the hips. And when you do add to a side seam, make sure your seam ends up dead perpendicular to the hem, which may be more or less curved especially in the front. That’s what causes a boing at that spot.

    • Zena says:

      To be clear, I’m not using the neckline from the pattern at all. I cut the front and back first, then freehand the neckline shape. I’ve been quite consistent with the shape, but as I developed my eye for this on wovens with a centre front slit, the shape I use may not be as suitable for T-shirts. So if it’s too high in front, that’s me, not the pattern.

      I had tried adding to the hip and it didn’t seem to help. I haven’t tried the new ideas above on another shirt yet, so I can’t say whether raising the waist will do the trick. I dug out one of my fitting books, which analyses these horizontal wrinkles as too much length.

      Perpendicularity to the hem is not a problem – I sew the side seams before committing to the final shape of the hem.

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