blue drawstring trousers

OK, so trousers haven’t been going super well for me. If you’re keeping count, you’ll know that I have one grey pair (too loose), one purple pair (too tight), and a stripey pair (too not done – though not actually abandoned). I figured the next project should be simple (in the sense of fewer variables) and practical for summer (because it was summer when I started).

I’ve been thinking that I want to be able to make all my own trousers, and I think I’ve finally deeply accepted the fact that (a) trousers that fit me cannot be bought off the rack, and (b) altering store-bought clothes is a pain in the ass (no pun intended). A corollary to the principle of “make my own” is “don’t buy any”. This part I have down. The making-my-own still requires some work though. As a result, I currently have 3 pairs of summer-only trousers and they’re all wearing out – in my world, that means not worth patching again. I do get my money’s worth, anyway.

Linen drawstring trousers/pants seemed to fit the bill as they’re super comfy but dressy enough for work (unlike my mostly worn-out cargo pants with the plaid patches). And I’ve got linen in the stash. I’ve got an existing pair (soon to be retired) that made a good reference and starting point.

Old on the left, new on the right. The length is very similar, but the crotch curves are different. I believe that the old pair is supposed to sit below my natural waist. The new pair actually does.

Another comparison.

The first – and most time-consuming – step was to develop my regular trouser pattern into a version that will work for drawstring trousers, which involved a muslin and numerous fittings. I got it working, cut my good fabric, and had even more fittings.

This is the fabric I used for this project: 5.3 oz linen in "blue bonnet" (IL019) from fabrics-store.com.

Still trying not to get bored and frustrated with fitting, but at least the crotch curve ended up not needing any adjustment – win! Once I got it working the way I wanted, it was time to figure out a seam finish. I was not going to disassemble it and start again to facilitate French seams, no matter how much I may like them. I chose to flat fell, and when I was done they looked better inside out, so that’s how I finished them.

CB: note the angle of the grain.

Drawstring at CF.

Seam finishing at cuff. Right side at top of photo, wrong side below. Slight wonkiness to right of seam is from hang-drying.

The waist at front isn't worth seeing (fabric ends up a bit bulky), though it's not bad from the back. They're freshly washed but not ironed, hence the wrinkly lower leg.

I have fabric for more, but September 1 has come and gone and it’s now fall. Although I’ve cut one more pair I’m not counting on being able to wear them this year – not at the rate I sew, anyway.

stash: -1.5m

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About Zena

I sew sometimes.
This entry was posted in stash, wearable and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.

2 Responses to blue drawstring trousers

  1. Tanit-Isis says:

    Yay, trousers win! That is an amazing difference in the crotch length, although I can’t say I’m surprised. I think you will be SO happy once you have a TNT or two worked out, though… and with any luck the crotch-curve won’t need too much more tweaking.

  2. Pingback: trousers revisited | Blood, Sweatshop & Tears

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